Triangle Loop – Week 23 (Philadelphia, PA)

Sep 28th to Oct 4th, 2025

Day 154 – Sunday, September 28th, 2025 – In: Delaware City, DE

On Sunday, we had planned to go to Fort Delaware, located on an island in the Delaware River; however, it was cancelled due to a problem with the Ferry. The guys at the marina hinted that if they don’t sell enough tickets, the Ferry mysteriously breaks. Fort Delaware has a rich history dating back to the early 19th century. Located on Pea Patch Island in the Delaware River, it was originally built in the 1850s to defend against potential invasions and protect important waterways. Over the years, it played a key role during the Civil War, serving as a Union fortress and a prison for Confederate soldiers. Today, Fort Delaware is a historic site and National Park, where visitors can explore its impressive defenses and learn about its fascinating past.

We spent the morning on the boat planning our route down the Chesapeake, then took a walk to see if we could find a Geocache. The Geocache was on a bridge over the canal right at the end of the marina. It took us a few minutes to locate it, as the coordinates were slightly off, but we eventually found it. Number 545! While Brenda was logging our find, I walked onto the bridge to take a few pictures of the boat. In the distance, I noticed a plume of smoke, and walked to the other side of the bridge to get a better look. It was coming from the stack of a large ship that looked like it was docked in downtown Delaware City!

We walked downtown and saw that it was docked at the oil refinery right next door. While we were checking out the oil tanker, we saw a huge liquefied natural gas (LNG) ship passing on the other side of Fort Delaware. Check out the photos below. The fort building is four stories tall, and the LNG tanker sticks above it!

It was almost 2:30, so we decided to go to Dolly Spankers again and have a big lunch, then skip dinner. In the parking lot, we saw a great hot rod with a fantastic paint job. Reminds me of the ZZ Top Hot Rod!

We had burgers at Dolly’s, which were excellent, then walked back to the boat. We spent the rest of the day relaxing and watching the boats and jet skis going past in the canal.

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Day 155 – Monday, September 29th, 2025 – To: Philadelphia, PA
Penn’s Landing Marina

Philadelphia, PA, is our next stop. Yesterday, we received a phone call from the dockmaster at Penn’s Landing, our marina, advising us not to arrive within an hour of low tide, either way, due to low water at the entrance. Low tide was around 2:30, so we planned to arrive between 12:30 and 1:00. The distance from Delaware City to Philadelphia was approximately 40 miles, which we estimated would take about 4 hours at our normal cruising speed.

At 8:00, we left Delaware City and headed north up the Delaware River past Dolly Spankers. Once we hit the main channel near the Delaware Memorial Bridge, two things became apparent. First, the current was much stronger than we had anticipated! It was running close to 2.5 mph, which meant that at our normal cruise engine setting of 1800 rpm, we were doing 8 mph instead of 10.5 mph. This meant that we would have to run fast for part of the trip. The other thing was that the river had a lot of debris in it. Logs, branches, tires, and barrels. We had to keep a constant vigil to avoid hitting anything. We were fortunate in that we only had one “bump,” and that was just a hull bump; it didn’t get into the props.

The route was very interesting, passing under some of the many bridges we’ve gone over, going from New England to the south. First was the Delaware Memorial Bridge (Interstate 295). They are installing large concrete caissons around the bridge piers to prevent another bridge hit and collapse. There is a lot of large ship traffic on the Delaware River, and we met a few tows and a bulk carrier on our trip to Philly.

Just before the Commodore Barry Bridge, we went by an anchorage with three large ships at anchor. The river isn’t that wide here, so we passed with a couple of hundred feet of them. Just beyond the anchorage, we met a bulk carrier, PAN Saligna, which was just coming under the bridge heading toward us. As we approached, they called out on the radio that they were turning into the anchorage.. Fortunately, we were just about to go by them and would be out of their way. As we passed, we saw that they had a tugboat with a line behind them holding them back from the current. Once we were clear, they turned and crossed the channel into the anchorage. As we passed under the Commodore Barry Bridge, we saw bridge workers in their bright green vests looking down at us from above.

The Philadelphia waterfront has many historic buildings, shipping terminals, power plants, as well as newer infrastructure like the Philadelphia Eagles Football Stadium and the Philadelphia Airport. There was always something new and interesting to look at. The Pennsylvania side of the river is lined with shipyards, dry docks, and container terminals. The New Jersey side has a mix of housing and oil and chemical plants. It was interesting to see neighborhoods sandwiched between huge tank farms and oil refineries.

We passed under the Walt Whitman Bridge (Interstate 76) and got our first good look at downtown Philadelphia. Our marina, Penn’s Landing, is located in an old ship’s quay that has been converted into a marina, public park, and floating maritime museum. As we pulled in through the opening and prepared to dock, the marina is on the east side, and on the west side is a 400-foot-long, four-masted sailing ship, the Moshulu. It is permanently moored and has been converted into a high-end restaurant and bar. In front of it is the 300-foot Olympia, Commodore Dewey’s Flagship from the Spanish-American War. It is a cruiser gunship and now a floating museum. Right behind it is the Becuna, a World War II-era submarine that is also now a floating museum. On the other side of the seawall from us are the Tug Jupiter and the Gazela, a three-masted schooner, both of which are being restored by the Maritime Museum.

At the far end of the quay are duck boats, paddle boards, and kayak rentals, the Philadelphia Maritime Museum, as well as a waterfront park. It’s quite the hive of activity!

We got safely tied up, and Rich, the dockmaster, gave us the rundown on the area. We were docked next to a sailboat, and the two Siamese boat cats came out on deck to check us out. We did our log books, and Rich stopped by with our Walmart delivery. Again, a fiasco, they only shipped half the order, and one of the items was missing. I don’t know how they can stay in business!

We decided to take a walk into town and check out the area. Our first stop was at Campo’s Philly Cheesesteaks, a famous, family-run sandwich shop, for our inaugural Philly Cheesesteak! It was everything we had hoped for. Delicious!

Next, we walked to Ben Franklin’s Court, the site of his former home and now a National Park Site. Here was the location of his post office and printing company. The post office site is both a postal museum and a functioning post office. Behind the post office is the Ben Franklin Museum. We went in and walked through the exhibits detailing Franklin’s life and contributions to politics and science. One of the most interesting exhibits was the Armonica, a musical instrument that he invented. It is composed of a series of spinning glass bowls of varying sizes. It is played by dipping your fingers in water and gently resting them on the rims of the bowls, similar to how you can run your finger around the edge of a wine glass and get a tone. Each bowl is tuned to a different note. Fascinating! There was a National Park Service Ranger playing the Armonica. She was doing quite well, having only just started learning the instrument.

From there, we walked to the National Park Visitors Center to obtain some maps and brochures, allowing us to plan our stay. We then went over to the building that houses the Liberty Bell. The line to view the bell was very short, so we went in to see it. Next, we walked across the street past Constitution Hall before heading back to the boat. It wasn’t that hot, mid-70s, but it was pretty humid.

When we got back to the boat, our forwarded mail had been dropped off. It contained a few parts that I had ordered, so I spent an hour working on boat projects, fixing our cord cover, and addressing a minor electrical issue.

At 5:30, we walked back into town to The Plough and & The Stars, an Irish Pub that had been recommended to us. It wasn’t just the typical Irish staples like Shepherd’s Pie. They also had some more upscale food. Brenda had a Seafood Risotto, with crab, blackened salmon, and Cajun shrimp. I had the pork ribeye with bacon, mashed potatoes, and asparagus. Both were excellent!

It is getting darker earlier now, and night had fallen by the time we finished dinner. We walked back to the boat and stopped on the quay to take photos of the Ben Franklin Bridge, which was lit up with purple lights, as well as the Battleship New Jersey across the river and the Moshulu and Olympia behind our slip, all lit up at night.

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Day 156 – Tuesday, September 30th, 2025 – In: Philadelphia, PA

Tuesday, we did some sightseeing. We started by finding a Geocache, #546, hidden on a lamp post just at the top of the dock on the quay. We were heading into town, and as we passed Rich, the dockmaster, he offered us a ride in his golf cart to the foot bridge over Interstate 95. He dropped us off, and we climbed the stairs to the bridge, getting a great view of a beautiful flag mural. After crossing over the highway, we were on Market Street, one of the main thoroughfares through town.

We walked a few blocks to the National Park Visitor Center. They have a ticket counter that offers discounts of 20% for popular attractions in the city. We purchased tickets for The Museum of Illusions, Betsy Ross House, and The Seaport Museum.

Our first stop was the Museum of Illusions. I figured it was a tourist trap, but Brenda wanted to go. I have to admit that it was really fun! There were lots of mirror tricks, three-dimensional sculptures, and images that deceived the eye. It was very interactive and we had fun taking pictures and staring at pictures to make them change. The staff was great as well, helping us take photos and suggesting poses.

Next was the Betsy Ross House. On the way, we stopped at Oh Brother to try another take on the Philly Cheesesteak. Oh Brother is right next door to Campo’s, where we tried a cheesesteak yesterday. It was good, but not as good as Campo’s. Once we finished our lunch, we walked to the Betsy Ross House. The house was not “her” house. She rented a room here after the death of her first husband. It is reportedly where she met with George Washington, who commissioned her to sew the first American Flag. She was running an upholstery shop at the time, but had to sew the flag in her bedroom at night, so that the British, who were in control of Philadelphia at the time, would not catch her. When she remarried, she moved out, and later the house was converted into a tavern. In 1898, an artist heard the story of Betsy Ross and did a painting of her meeting with George Washington. The painting won a civic contest, and he purchased the tavern, restoring it and opening it as a tourist attraction in 1937. In 1975, in preparation for the Bicentennial Celebration, her remains were relocated to the site, along with those of her first husband. Quite interesting!

After visiting with Betsy, we walked back across the highway to Penn’s Landing, where the marina is, and visited the Philadelphia Seaport Museum, right at the end of our dock. The museum was interesting, with many exhibits about the history of shipbuilding along the Delaware River in Philadelphia and across in Camden, New Jersey. One of the highlights there is their extensive collection of model ships with over 100 on display, some dating from the early 1800s. They also provide tours of the Olympia (Commodore Dewey’s ship, docked right behind us) and the submarine Becuna. We were too late for the tour today, so we will try to take the tour before we leave.

After visiting the museum, we returned to the boat for a brief rest. We had done quite a bit of walking and didn’t want to go far for dinner, so we went to Keating’s Rope and Anchor at the Hilton just across the basin from the boat.

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Day 157 – Wednesday, October 1st, 2025 – In: Philadelphia, PA

This morning, we went to the Olympia, showed the guy in the booth our ticket, and explained that we were too late for the tour the previous day. “Go right on in!” he said! Initially, we thought that the ship was from World War 1. The USS Olympia is a legendary American naval ship with a fascinating history. It was launched in 1892 and played a key role during the Spanish-American War in 1898, serving as the flagship for Admiral George Dewey. Admiral Dewey is famous for leading the U.S. Navy to a stunning victory at the Battle of Manila Bay aboard the Olympia. After many years of service, including duty during WWI, the ship was retired and turned into a museum in Philadelphia, where visitors can explore its decks and learn about its important role in history. Quite the history!

We spent an hour or so exploring the ship and marveling at its history and the level of preservation. It is claimed to be the oldest steel warship afloat. We were fascinated by the different levels of accommodation and comfort for the Admiral, Captain, and Officers, with private state rooms, china cupboards, and beds, compared with the crew, who had communal showers, eight wide privies, and hammocks hanging over the dining tables.

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After touring the Olympia, we took an Uber into downtown Philadelphia and visited the Reading Terminal Market. The Reading Market has a fascinating history dating back to the early 1800s. The fully enclosed market was a lively place where local farmers and vendors sold fresh fruits, vegetables, meats, and household goods. Over time, it became a cherished community spot for neighbors to gather, shop, and enjoy good food. Today, the market spans about 22,000 square feet and is home to around 80 vendors. Of these, about three-quarters serve delicious prepared foods, making it a fantastic place to grab a tasty meal or pick up fresh ingredients. It still keeps its friendly, neighborhood feel, blending rich history with a vibrant, modern marketplace.

We didn’t quite know what to expect when we arrived. As we walked through the doors, we were amazed at the sheer size and number of vendors. We decided to make a first pass, walking up and down the aisles and seeing what was on offer. There were so many different foods, and the smells were amazing! Fresh Dutch Apple Pies, Philly Cheesesteaks, Roast Pork, Cheese, Baked Goods, Hot Dogs, and just about any ethnic food you could want! Many have counters or seating where you can eat, and there is also a central seating area with tables. It’s sort of like a mall food court on steroids!

There were also several butchers, fishmongers, cheese shops, and fresh produce stalls mixed in. While there were a few craft vendors, these were not in the majority, like many markets. When we arrived around 11:00, the market was already busy. As we walked around, it became even more crowded as lunchtime approached, with long lines of people at many of the more popular eateries.

It took us about an hour to finish our first pass around the market. We had seen a few bakeries and made a note to go back to them. First, however, the smell of the food had finally caught up with us, and we stopped at Tommy Dinic’s Roast Pork Sandwiches stall and shared a freshly roasted pork sub. Delicious!

We had seen some pastries and cookies that we wanted to pick up, so we walked around the market again. We found the cookie stall and bought an assortment. Then we walked up and down the aisles from one end to the other, looking for the bakery where we had seen some tasty-looking Danish. We covered the entire market, walking up and down the aisles, from one side to the other, and didn’t find the booth. The place is enormous, so we weren’t surprised.

We looked through our photos to see if we could spot it, but we hadn’t taken a picture of it. So, we walked back and forth in the aisles from front to back. Still, we didn’t find it! We both recall the Danish, but couldn’t remember exactly where. We did another round, and still couldn’t find them. We were about to give up and get something from another bakery. We looked at the vendor directory and took note of all the bakeries. There was one that we’d missed, right off the main front aisle, in the middle of the market. We made our way there and found the great-looking cherry and cheese danish that we remembered. After walking for so long, we stocked up on cheese and cherry danishes, as well as some tasty-looking chocolate croissants as a bonus!

We left the market and walked to the next major street to make it easier to get an Uber. Right on the corner was the Hard Rock Cafe. We collect Hard Rock pins, so we popped in and got one to add to our collection. Our Uber arrived, and we went back to the marina to drop off our goodies and rest our feet.

We had seen another neighborhood farmers’ market not far from the marina, the Christ Church Wednesday Farmers Market. It runs from 3:00 to 6:00. At 4:00, we walked up to the market. It was a relatively small event, with only about eight vendors, but a local orchard was present, offering a great variety of freshly picked apples. So we picked up a few and some apple cider.

We had an HOA conference call scheduled for 5:00, so we went back to The Plough & The Stars and sat in a corner of the bar to listen in. While we were listening, we had an appetizer, and when the meeting wrapped up at 6:00, we had another delicious dinner. I had the Steak Frites, and Brenda had a warm tomato and mozzarella salad. Since our last visit, just a day ago, they had decorated the place for Halloween!

After dinner, we walked back to the boat, taking in the new colors —red & green — on the Ben Franklin Bridge.

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Day 158 – Thursday, October 2nd, 2025 – In: Philadelphia, PA

Today, all the National Park tourist sites were closed due to the government shutdown, so we chose a few museums to visit that are not part of the national park system.

First, we went to the Museum of the American Revolution. This details the history of the founding of the United States, from the first tax protests through the Revolutionary War, and into the early years of our independence and the writing of the Constitution. The visit started with a 12-minute film on the history of their most significant artifact, George Washington’s Campaign Tent. This is the original tent that Washington used as his quarters and office during the Revolutionary War. According to the story, Washington refused to sleep in Inns and houses, preferring to camp in his tent with the troops and share their hardships.

After the war, the tent and much of the furniture and chests used were passed down through his family, finally ending up with Mary Curtis Lee, daughter of Robert E Lee. During the Civil War, the Union Army confiscated the tent and sent it to Washington for safekeeping. Reverend Herbert Burk eventually purchased it to establish the Valley Forge Historical Society, which is now the Museum of the American Revolution.

After the introduction video, the screen rises and you can see the tent. From there, you walk through a series of rooms that have displays detailing the Revolutionary War in chronological order. If you are in Philadelphia, we recommend it!

From there, we walked to the Museum for Art in Wood. This museum features displays of artwork and furniture crafted from wood. It features a permanent collection of over 1,200 handmade objects, including functional art and sculptures, and hosts rotating exhibitions showcasing emerging and established artists. Like any art museum, the pieces range from exquisite examples of the craft to what were they thinking! The craftsmanship on the majority of the pieces was superb.

The first floor features a rotating collection of art pieces and woodwork in furniture. The inlay work was amazing! The second floor is their permanent collection. Most of these are smaller pieces housed in glass cabinets. The cabinets are designed to allow you to walk around them and view the art from both sides. Each item has a number, and you can use the computer to look up information on the piece and read about the artist. We spent about 90 minutes walking through the displays.

One of the best parts of our visit to Philadelphia is the architecture. As we walked around, we must have stood out as tourists because we were always looking up to see the detail and craftsmanship on the old buildings. It’s an architect’s dream.

On our way back to the boat, we passed a hardware store and popped in to pick up a lock so that we could add our memory to the Philadelphia Hope Fence. When we got back, I epoxied one of our Kissed Some Frog pins to the lock, and when we went to dinner, we added it to the wall.

For dinner, we walked to a part of Philadelphia called Society Hill and went to Paddy Whacks Irish Sports Pub. The menu looked good online, but after the great food at The Plough and The Stars, it was a disappointment.

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Day 159 – Friday, October 3rd, 2025 – In: Philadelphia, PA

This is our last day in Philadelphia. Brenda found a local glass-blowing studio, and she made an appointment for us to visit. We took an Uber across town and met Jim Loewer of Jim Loewer Glass. He does torch-based glass making. We chatted with him for about an hour, and he showed us his work and technique. He didn’t have a shop as such, but he does production work for gift shops, and he had some completed items available. We picked up a glass medalion, a custom whiskey glass, and a bud vase.

The building where the studio is located was once an old factory and now houses around a hundred artists’ studios. Even the building itself is a work of art with giant murals of trees and machinery on the front.

From the glass studio, we went to the Philadelphia Museum of Art. The museum is probably best known for the stair-climbing scene in Rocky. When we arrived, a line of people was waiting for their turn to run up the stairs, while their friends took videos and pictures.

The Philadelphia Museum of Art has a fascinating history that dates back to the late 19th century. It officially opened in 1876, initially focusing on American art, but it quickly expanded to include masterpieces from around the world. The museum’s extensive collection was built through donations, purchases, and bequests from artists, collectors, and patrons who wished to share their passion for art. Over the years, it grew significantly, adding both ancient artifacts and modern artworks. The museum has undergone several renovations and expansions to enhance the space and showcase more of its treasures.

There are items from all over the world with works dating back to the 9th century. There are works by many famous masters, including Picasso, Vincent van Gogh, Marcel Duchamp, Mary Cassatt, and Paul Cézanne. Rooms full of armor, and an extensive collection of religious icons and paintings. The displays are organized by region, time period, and style. One of the most fascinating aspects of the museum is that many of the display rooms have walls taken from historic structures. There are complete French and English sitting rooms—a Buddhist temple and tea house from Japan, the stone walls and arches from European monasteries, and an entire nave from a medieval church. These settings are used to display the works from that area and time period. It’s fascinating! How do you get someone to sell you the entire stone cloister from a medieval monastery, complete with a fountain, disassemble it, ship it across the ocean, and reassemble it inside a museum? Incredible!

We spent almost four hours in the museum, and while we saw probably 80% of it, we felt rushed. If you get to Philadelphia, plan at least a full day. Tickets are valid for two days of admission, allowing you time to see it all.

We had to end our visit at 3:30 so that we could get back to the boat and change for our 5:00 dinner reservation at Moshulu, the four-masted ship restaurant behind our boat. This was a treat dinner. We rarely go to really fancy restaurants. The interior of the ship was impressive! All polished wood and brass. Our table had a porthole view over the marina and our boat! The service was top-notch, and our waitress was friendly and attentive. We started with a braised pork belly appetizer, which was delicious! For dinner, I had their ribeye with balsamic stewed onions. It was cooked perfectly, and the sauce was amazing. Brenda had Tuna Tataki with sticky rice, bok choy, shiitake, hijiki salad, pickled ginger, and a soy reduction. Also delicious! Of course, we couldn’t leave without dessert, so we shared their Moshulu Signature Sundae. Vanilla & salted caramel ice cream, chocolate brownie, chocolate chip cookie, fresh berries, chocolate and caramel sauces, and whipped cream.

After dinner, we strolled around the ship. In addition to the indoor dining room, they also have outdoor dining on the upper deck. The ship features an indoor and two outdoor bars, as well as indoor and outdoor event spaces. A wedding was taking place in the outdoor event area, with over 150 people in attendance. Like we said, it’s a big ship! 400 feet long, 47 feet wide, three decks with restaurant seating, and two decks for the kitchen. It’s an all-steel sailing barque built in 1904, which was a cargo ship for most of its life before being permanently moored in Penn’s Landing. While it’s moored with steel pilings, it is still a floating ship that rises and falls with the tides.

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Day 160 – Saturday, October 4th, 2025 – To: Chesapeake City, MD
Bohemia Bay Yacht Harbor

Penn’s Landing Marina is an excellent location for exploring Philadelphia, and we have thoroughly enjoyed our stay here. If you plan a stay, there are a few things to keep in mind. First, it’s shallow! Even at high tide, there is only 6 feet of water, and sailboats sit on the bottom at low tide. Second, while there is power and water, there are no bathrooms or showers. Third, be prepared to walk! It’s a little over a 1/4 mile from the dock to the street. The staff, Rich and Mike, were great! Always around to lend a hand and, if available, give you a lift on their golf cart.

We had to wait until 10:00 to leave to give the tide a chance to come in. When I checked at 7:00 am, our depth sounder was reading -0.7 feet. Yes, negative almost a foot! I double checked it with my handheld depth finder, and it was correct. The bottom of the boat was sitting in about 6 inches of mud. By 10:00, it was reading 2-feet, plenty to get out of the slip.

We pulled out and hugged the Olympia and Moshulu ships, where there was deeper water, then popped out into the Delaware River. The tide was still coming in, so we were fighting a 1 to 2-mph current. On our way up, we had to dodge lots of sticks and logs in the river, and during our stay, we frequently saw debris floating past the marina. We kept our eyes peeled! There wasn’t as much debris this morning, so we were able to run at 17 mph most of the time.

We typically avoid traveling on weekends due to the large amount of pleasure boat traffic. Today there was lots of traffic, but not pleasure boats, large ships, and barges! We passed three large ships and four barges along the way! Fortunately, the river is quite wide, so there was plenty of room to get around them.

We passed Fort Delaware, located across from Delaware City, and turned down the C & D Canal, which connects the Delaware River to the Chesapeake Bay. We didn’t meet any ship traffic after entering the canal, but there was a constant stream of pleasure boats zipping past, some rocking us so bad that we had stuff falling off the counters. I hate inconsiderate boaters!

When we reached Bohemia Bay, we had a 2-mile run up the bay to the marina. The Bay is notoriously shallow. Most of it is 7 feet or less, and there are many shifting shoals. We crept into the marina, frequently seeing less than a foot under the boat, but we didn’t ground. I thought I had picked a good route, but when we started seeing the depth drop to 1 foot, we observed the locals coming in and out of the bay and changed course to follow their route. Once we found the “deep water,” we made it to the marina with about 2 feet under us. We tied up and settled in.

We stayed at Bohemia on our first loop. It’s a lovely facility, but it’s in the middle of nowhere. The closest anything is about 8 miles away. Uber and Lyft are pretty much non-existent. We had leftovers on the boat, so we just relaxed for the rest of the day, worked on the blog, and ate our leftovers for dinner.

At sunset, we were treated to a beautiful sunset on the west side of the boat, and a beautiful moonrise on the east side.

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Recap of the week

We traveled 105 miles this week, bringing our total to 3,009 miles so far. We had a great stay in Philadelphia. It’s a beautiful city with lots of interesting architecture and many museums and historical sites to visit. We plan a return trip! We went through the C & D (Chesapeake & Delaware) Canal and are now officially back in the Chesapeake Bay.

Next week, we will begin our trip down the Chesapeake, starting with a few days in Baltimore, then skipping back and forth across the Bay to visit friends and explore new ports.